Preparation Guide

PREPARATION GUIDE FOR HOT MOPPED SHOWER PANS

Our commitment to our customers is to give your project a:

ON TIME
TOP QUALITY TROUBLE FREE
COST EFFECTIVE
HOT MOPPED SHOWER PAN

Taking the time to have your pan ready when we arrive saves time and money for all involved. Other contractors may take short cuts or make do with shower pans that are not quite ready! We at The Shower Pan co will not do a pan that is not ready, we will inform you as to what needs to be done before we can proceed. Reschedule if necessary. We want your Hot Mopped Shower Pan to be the very best your money can buy. Thank you for taking the time to learn about having your shower pan ready for us, call us if you need any further assistance or have a unique situation!!!

FOR WOOD FRAME CONSTRUCTION

  • All backing needs to be solid, a single 2x10 or better works well.
  • 2-2x6s or any combination of lumber stacked on edge is acceptable, nail or screw tightly together as possible with no gaps between the pieces, bottom plate to block, and/or block to block.
  • Where plumbing or other constraints prohibits the use of 2x blocking, plywood or other sheeting can be used.
  • Where blocking cannot be installed due to obstructions in the bay. Sheet metal backing can be used, 24 gauges are best.
  • We can supply sheet metal backing at a nominal cost if needed. Please inform the backing only is used were wood backing cannot be used due to obstructions, usually this happens were the plumbing or other construction trades need to run their materials in the shower walls.

BENCHES OR SHOWER SEATS

  • Both the face and top need to be fully sheeted or blocked.
  • Vertical backing is needed were the seat face meets the walls, bottom plate to a minimum of 5-1/2” above the seat/bench top. The minimum width of 3-1/2” is required here.
  • Where the bench top meets the wall, 5-1/2” is the minimum blocking requirement here.
  • 1/2” plywood is the minimum thickness to use as sheeting.
  • It always a good idea to pitch your seat/bench top this needs to be done when it framed, we cannot pitch a seat/bench top with the pre-pitch preparation we do for
    This needs to be done the day before your Hot Mop application. Call for details and pricing!

CURBS/DAMS

  • Curbs should be a minimum of 2” above the height of the drain top and not more receptors.
  • The curb can be built of wood, brick, poured concrete, or the pan can be recessed.
  • The industry standard for curbs is 4-1/2” in height, and 3-1/2” in width. This is usually at the entrance to your shower pan.
  • Special heights and widths can be done depending on the lay-out and design of your shower pan.

PREPARATIONS FOR DRAINS

  • other device (2-piece bolt together!) to make a water tight connection between the Hot Mop and drain. This means that the top piece of the drain must bolt to the bottom piece with the Hot Mop layers in between!
  • iron bottom with ABS top are the most common ones used, some also may have an adjustable height drain screen that screws into the clamping ring of the drain.
  • Drains need to be installed level and be secured to achieve the minimum amount or movement.

SPECIALTY DRAINS

  • Pre-made troughs are available and some can be hot-mopped in place. Please call with manufactures name and we can verify if your product can be used.
  • Thunder-bird deck drains and custom built copper sluice and or trough drains can also be mopped-in, depending on local codes. TROUGH DRAINS
  • When making your own trough. The area where the drain will be needs to be re- that the drain top is at the height of your trough bottom. This applies to either wood maintained. 9” wide X 6” deep X length of trough desired.

WE INSTALL DRAINS

  • In order for us to install a drain for you there can be no
  • We do not install any pipe or make any connection besides the drain to the stub up!
  • to wrap the pipe with cardboard, foam and/or with duct tape to get the clearance for our drain to slip down and be level after you pour any concrete needed
  • We can only install the drains that we supply.

HOT MOP “ADJUSTABLE DRAIN ADAPTERS”

  • Ebbe drain systems make an adapter plate that converts a regular stack drain into an adjustable screen screw in type! This can take a square drain top that comes in a adapting to a trough drain as your design ideas change!!! Call us for more info!

TUB AND PONY WALLS

  • When you have a your tub and shower laid out next to each other the dividing wall and/or ledge should be hot mopped.
  • plate to top with solid material.
  • If the tub is lower than the top of the dividing wall then the portion facing the tub should be blocked and can be mopped down to the tub deck.
  • If a pony wall is to be hot mopped, it will need to be solid blocked or sheeted with plywood.

TUB LEDGES

  • When the tub deck is the same level as the dividing wall between the two, have the tub deck sheathing and all framing installed and we will mop onto the deck at least 6” for the protection that is needed here.
  • Remember to have the dividing wall blocked or sheeted from bottom plate to deck sheeting.

MORE DETAILS FOR “MAKING YOUR PAN READY”

  • between the studs prior to hanging of the drywall. Following the details to make your pan ready for Hot Mop with shear wall covering. Drywall with-out backing behind is not a suitable surface by itself as it be cracked or damaged during the installation of the Hot Mop.
  • standards.(1/4” to 1/2” maximum per foot)

SOAP, SHAMPOO, AND OTHER NICHES

  • Niches need to have solid backs and solid 3” jambs, sill and header framing, any shape can be mopped!
  • Niches that are higher than 48” to top cannot be mopped unless prior notice is giv- en.

WINDOWS IN SHOWERS

  • Fixed panels and operating windows that are to be exposed to the shower head(s) should be set after the hot mop is completed. As to be able
  • to and/or the manufactures for their recommended guide lines.
  • In some cases the hot mop will roll over the rough jamb opening and tie into the ex-
  • The same applies to any door openings that may open into a shower unit, rough sill

OTHER BACKING APPLICATIONS:

Hot mopping also adheres to block, concrete walls, sheet metal, drywall, hardi-backer, cement backer boards, denshield and other materials, all can serve as backing if used properly, and if they are to be covered with a second layer of tile backing material.

PREPARATION FOR ADA OR WALK-IN SHOWERS

  • For this style of shower to be properly hot mopped, there are many considerations!
  • A minimum 3" recess is needed for a standard size shower whether it be wood or concrete, (check your local codes). An adjustable drain is recommended and many times is mandatory. A smooth transition must be in place.
  • The recessed edge serves as a curb and must be mopped a minimum of 4".

ROMAN AND SPA TUBS

  • Tubs need to be fully sheeted. All shapes and sizes can be Hot Mopped.
  • No jets or penetrations can be installed until after the hot mop.
  • Drain size needs to be 2” and the same type as a shower.
  • cal building dept.
  • The tub deck and 6” above on any adjoining walls will be mopped, these walls to be solidly backed as with a shower pan.
  • Concrete tubs can be hot mopped.

STEEL STUD FRAMING

  • Steel studs need to have 10” high of heavy gauge sheet metal (24 gauge minimum) Curbs need to be solid with no gaps between top and bottom plate. Surface applied metal works here also.
  • If applicable, surface applied drywall or other board material can be used for back- ing as long as the mop is going to be lapped by a second layer of tile backing mate- stances where this can be used.